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Breckenridge Chairlift
Anyone living in a ski town like Breckenridge, the place I have called home for 18 years, knows how drastic this economic and lifestyle crash has been. (Photo: Kyle Maass/Getty)

The Pandemic Is Forcing Ski Towns to Rethink Tourism

When once crowded mountain communities like Breckenridge, Colorado, saw visitors vanish this spring, locals scrambled to mitigate the economic damage and plot a return, while keeping their towns' character intact

Published: 
Breckenridge Chairlift
(Photo: Kyle Maass/Getty)

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Jeffrey Bergeron鈥檚 phone started ringing at all hours the third week of March, soon after his adopted hometown of Breckenridge, Colorado, shut down due to the COVID-19 pandemic. A native of Brockton, Massachusetts, on Boston鈥檚 gritty South Shore,听Bergeron moved to Breckenridge in 1975 when he was 20. He鈥檚 represented the town鈥檚 5,000 residents as a councilman for more than a decade. Known by his nom de plume, , the 66-year-old media personality describes himself as 鈥渒ind of a freak,鈥 which makes him a man of the ski-town people in a way that most elected officials are not.

Breckenridge was founded as a mining town in 1859. It existed for more than a century before a tiny ski resort opened there in 1961 on 12,998-foot Peak 8. Now听听is among the biggest and busiest in the country, routinely notching more than 1.6 million skier visits as one of the most popular destinations on Vail Resorts鈥 vaunted Epic Pass. Last year听the town听recorded $658 million in taxable sales by local businesses.听Multimillion-dollar homes are in vogue the way two-room cabins once were. Bergeron has accepted the growth like ski bums accept summer鈥攂egrudgingly鈥攚hile always striving to defend the easygoing听vibe he fell in love with 45 years ago,听when he and a friend puttered down Main Street in their 1962 VW Squareback.

So听this March, when nearly a dozen longtime residents called Bergeron, on the verge of sobbing, unsure what they were going to do or if they would be able to stay, the pandemic hit home in a way that no bottom line could. 鈥淚n many cases, these were dudes in their forties听who I ski with or lift weights with, and they were fighting to maintain their composure,鈥 Bergeron told me. 鈥淭hey thought they were taking the next step to their future鈥攖hey finally had a business and property. Then, within five days, everything was tenuous.鈥

This tiny tune shop on Ski Hill Road does an annual countdown to opening day. This year, the owner, Pup Ascher, added a caveat.
This tiny tune shop on Ski Hill Road does an annual countdown to opening day. This year, the owner, Pup Ascher, added a caveat. (Devon O'Neil/国产吃瓜黑料)

Anyone living in a ski town like Breckenridge, the place I have called home for 18 years, knows how drastic this economic and lifestyle crash has been. Take Downstairs at Eric鈥檚, a popular family restaurant on Main Street owned by the town mayor, Eric Mamula. Eric鈥檚 had set revenue records for seven straight years entering 2020. It appeared primed to do that again, with unprecedented sales in January and February and a booming start to March, typically the richest month of the year for听Breckenridge鈥檚听local businesses. Just up Ski Hill Road, at the base of Peak 8, Breckenridge Grand Vacations (BGV), which sells luxury time-shares and manages nearly 900 lodging units, was on pace to notch the highest sales total听in its 32-year history.

Then on Saturday, March 14. Two days later, the town shut down its restaurants and bars, and all tourists were asked to leave by the end of the week. Their departure left much of the community out of work. BGV, the largest year-round employer in Summit County, furloughed more than 500 staff, or 85 percent of its workforce. Vail Resorts laid off or furloughed almost all of its local employees for up to six months. It was as if an ice age had arrived while everyone was sleeping, and we woke up to a place听frozen in time. Retail shops that had been short-staffed all winter replaced their 鈥淗elp Wanted鈥 signs with COVID-19 closure notices. I walked down the double yellow line on Main Street for blocks without seeing a car鈥攐r a person.

Breckenridge has endured its share of local and global calamities, from听rampant mine closures to 9/11to the Great Recession. But the last real threat to the town鈥檚 identity was the 1980鈥81 winter, when the resort only opened for brief stretches and closed for the season in March, after recording just 86 inches of snow听(an average season sees around 350 inches). The population exodus was so dramatic that someone posted a sign on Main Street that read听鈥淟ast One to Leave, Turn Out the Lights.鈥 Twentieth Century Fox, which owned the resort at the time, made sure that never happened again, investing in snowmaking and installing the world鈥檚 first high-speed quad chairlift the following year. 鈥淭hat event was not even in the same galaxy as this pandemic, as far as fostering insecurity about the future of our town,鈥 Bergeron says.听

Over the past two months, mountain towns around the world have adjusted to an uncomfortable, indefinite standstill. March and April are typically economic windfalls, and some resorts stay open through May, including Breckenridge. After the pandemic hit, businesses small and large, as well as nonprofits and municipal governments, slashed their budgets, anticipating annual revenue losses of 40 to 50 percent. Locals hunkered down like marmots in a blizzard. The (where I worked before starting a freelance career) published 12-page newspapers when they鈥檇 normally be four times听as thick,and it solicited donations from readers. The only companies hiring in the classifieds were Waste Management, the hospital, and Wendy鈥檚.

According to 听released on March 24, we can expect to see a $400 billion decrease in U.S. travel spending this year,听including $350 billion in domestic travel, which is听Breckenridge鈥檚 bread and butter. 鈥淭his is seven times the impact of 9/11,鈥澨齮he report stated. Local property manager Toby Babich, who serves as president of the international Vacation Rental Management Association, told me that bookings from May through August were down 80 percent from the previous year in听traditionally powerhouse destinations like Florida and the Gulf Coast, and down 40 to 60 percent in mountain towns. Bergeron says he wouldn鈥檛 be surprised if Breckenridge loses 15 percent of its population. (In addition to the 5,000 year-round residents, there are also hundreds of seasonal winter workers.) Aside from those who move back in with their parents to escape the area鈥檚 high cost of living, it鈥檚 unclear where they would go.

To help locals get by, in late March, the town dipped into its $20 million rainy-day fund and established rent-assistance pools for small businesses and those who work in town. Nearly 210 business owners applied for April aid, receiving an average of $3,000 from a $1 million听fund, while 900 residents鈥 rent handouts were drawn from a pool听of $500,000. The point was to spread out the body blows. 鈥淏efore the town chips in, we鈥檝e been going to landlords and saying, 鈥楬ey, you鈥檙e owed this much, what will you take?鈥欌 Bergeron says. If the landlord doesn鈥檛 cooperate, neither does the government.听Other ski towns, like , have done similar things, while in Jackson, Wyoming, are filling the benefactor role. Still, not every ski bum is protected. In Stowe, Vermont, the only rent assistance available is what people can procure from the feds, says town planning director Tom Jackman.听

Everyone has feared a mental-health crisis as part of the pandemic, and for a while,it appeared Breckenridge might avoid that fate. Testing for the virus听ramped up in mid-April听(as of this writing, 243听people had tested positive in Summit County, with 47听hospitalizations and one death), and talk of reopening began. Then two local teenagers committed suicide eight days apart in late April, sending the community into shock. 鈥淚 think we can say confidently that the isolation was a factor in the emotional rawness of these kids,鈥 says Jen McAtamney, executive director of , a local mental-health nonprofit.听鈥淏ecause they鈥檙e听supposed to be socializing, and their brains are developing right now, so it鈥檚 hard for them to see the other side of this鈥攖he future.鈥 Building Hope funds up to 12 therapy sessions for anyone in need, often starting as soon as a person听applies. 鈥淲e鈥檝e been getting as many calls in a day as we usually get in a week,鈥 McAtamney says.

What does the future look like for Breckenridge and other ski towns? Much depends, of course, on how long the pandemic lasts. 鈥淚 describe it, frankly, as unrolling a snowball,鈥 says Robin Theobald, a fifth-generation Breckenridge resident and prominent local businessman. 鈥淎 snowball will roll down the hill on its own, but how do you put that back on the hill? You can鈥檛 unroll it.鈥 Town manager Rick Holman says he expects to see a $190 million decrease in sales this year, compared with 2019. Already听at least one Main Street shop has gone under, with more likely to follow. Many businesses received federal assistance to cover payroll and overhead, but that doesn鈥檛 solve the biggest problem: a lack of visitors spending money.听

All lodging properties were shut down through May but were allowed to reopen June 1. The Breckenridge Tourism Office was targeting July 4 as its official summer kickoff, then changed course and decided not to stage any major events, to prevent large crowds. Main Street, typically clogged by traffic, is being turned into a pedestrian throughway, giving people more room to avoid each other. BGV plans to have its guests sign a pledge to abide by public-health orders upon their arrival鈥攁 provision many locals support, given their wariness of letting outsiders back in without treatment or a vaccine for the virus. The 鈥淏GV Promise鈥 requires guests to cover their faces anytime they鈥檙e outside their rooms at the resort, unless they鈥檙e eating, drinking, or playing in the pool. 鈥淲e鈥檙e trying to avoid conflict among our guests,鈥 says company CEO Mike Dudick. If visitors refuse to wear masks inside a retail shop or a restaurant downtown, as mandated by government officials, the town鈥檚 delicate dependence on tourism could come to a head.

鈥淚 think there鈥檚 going to be a philosophical discussion for locals to have,鈥 Dudick says. 鈥淏ecause those who were in the camp of听We have way too many tourists, now they鈥檝e gotten to look squarely down the barrel of what it looks like with zero. So what kind of economy do we really need to live in this community? Where鈥檚 the balance point?鈥

Mayor Mamula, who wasreelected in early April, and whose father was the mayor 20 years ago, envisions one potential silver lining that could extend to ski towns everywhere. With many service workers earning between $25,000 and $30,000 a year, homeownership听is often out of reach, a major reason why locals leave to raise their families elsewhere. 鈥淢aybe some housing goes on the market when we come out of this, and people who have lived here for a long time are actually able to afford it,鈥 Mamula says. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 what I鈥檓 hoping for: we get a shake-up in the economy, where some of the people who have used this as strictly a place to make money and not a place to live will get replaced by people who want to live here.鈥 It鈥檚 an attractive prospect on paper, but April Norton, director of Wyoming鈥檚 Teton County Affordable Housing program, says early signs in Jackson Hole leave her worried.听鈥淚 see it going the other way for us, which is really scary,鈥 she told me.

Ironically, two bases that have been assailed by locals who feel Breckenridge is too busy鈥攄ay-trippersfrom the Front Range and time-share occupants鈥攁re likely to play a crucial role in kick-starting the economy. But how many destination travelers join them, and when, is the wild card. Breckenridge Tourism Office CEO Lucy Kay told me the organization has spent 鈥渧ery little鈥 of its $1.2 million summer advertising budget, which is used to attract visitors from out of state. 鈥淲e don鈥檛 want to bring in too many people too fast,鈥 she says. 鈥淲e want to see how much fills organically.鈥 The long-term prognosis remains unpredictable, like the virus. 鈥淵ou could take this out to a worst-case scenario, where we lose part of next winter, and that could be devastating,鈥 says Mamula, whose restaurant employs 48 people, four of whom tested positive for COVID-19 in May. 鈥淭hen I don鈥檛听know what happens. I don鈥檛听even want to think about that right now.鈥

Theobald believes there is too much money invested in Breckenridge by wealthy vacationers for its economy not to recover. Urban residents still pine for mountain escapes, perhaps now more than before. But if you ask Bergeron, the biggest threat is qualitative, not quantitative.听

鈥淭he people who have called me in a state of panic really reflect what this place is about, and yet they might have to leave,鈥 Bergeron says. 鈥淭hey鈥檇 be replaced eventually by people with the same occupation听but who don鈥檛 have the historical understanding of what our town is. And that could really change what I think is the best part about Breckenridge鈥攖he character. It鈥檚 forgiving, freewheeling, and a remarkable place to live.鈥

Lead Photo: Kyle Maass/Getty

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