When I was 14 years old, I went on my first climbing trip to the Sierra with a man in his late twenties, a mentor of mine. We piled into his small pickup truck, smashed between ropes and climbing gear.
Above the rearview mirror was a little sign that read 鈥淏aked Goods.鈥 The words were circled and had an X听through them.
I thought it was weird that anyone would hate baked goods, but I was thankful to be there, so I didn鈥檛 say anything. We stopped at a bagel shop to fuel up. I was a late-blooming child, and food was simple to me back then: you eat when you are hungry and play the rest of the time. I ordered two bagels with extra cream cheese and consumed them before we left the parking lot. I barely felt full after I finished.
鈥淵ou aren鈥檛 going to climb anything after those bagels,听Rodden,鈥 he laughed. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 like two days鈥 worth of calories.鈥
I had no idea what he was talking about, but I felt ashamed and dumb, like I didn鈥檛 know an important rule of climbing, or eating. The seed was planted.
Two years later, in a crowded stadium after a World Cup competition, one of my climbing heroes told me that she lost five pounds before every competition, then gained the weight back afterward. I started losing weight before comps, too, only I didn鈥檛 gain it back afterward. Weight loss, I decided, was a path to the podium.
One of the problems was: it worked. At least I thought it did. I made the podium at World Cups and won the Junior National Championships four years in a row, but I couldn鈥檛 celebrate my success because I was busy comparing myself听to my peers. No one ever explicitly told me to lose weight, but in my mind, being thin equaled听success. So I scrutinized how my competitors looked and what they ate or didn鈥檛 eat. I wanted to match or better them.
My thighs were skinnier than my knees until my late teens. I didn鈥檛 get my period听until I was 19. When I finally did, I felt like a failure鈥攊t meant I was gaining听weight.
The climbers I saw in magazines were desperately skinny听and usually scantily clad. I started to notice that most of my peers and competitors could still wear children鈥檚 clothing. I scoped out听people鈥檚 teeth and tried to guess听who threw up.听My eating became so stringent that I would go to bed hungry every night and only feel comfortable eating prepackaged听and preportioned听meals, so I knew exactly how many calories I was consuming.

Sadly, my behavior was only rewarded. I performed better, and I got more sponsorships with each competition won. I was featured in movies or advertisements听for first ascents and barriers that I broke. It was a win-at-all-costs system that, at the time, I was happy to be a part of. And it seemed that the culture was happy to have me there, as long as I was performing. I felt in control and empowered to manipulate my body to achieve the impossible.
But as I got older, nature took over. At some point, I no longer weighed as much as a child. I felt like an elephant as I matured.听I started getting my period regularly. I moved from an extra-small climbing harness to a small one. Women鈥檚 bodies change. While men just seem to get stronger, our center听of gravity shifts. We get hips and breasts. I felt that I was losing my edge.
I transitioned away from competition and toward听big walls and hard traditional climbing. But one thing that didn鈥檛 change was my eating or how I felt about my body. I was ashamed of it. I pined to have a six-pack and muscular arms so I would 鈥渓ook good鈥 in a sports bra.
At the time, I was married to professional climber . At almost every photo shoot, I鈥檇 be asked to take off my shirt. Tommy was able to leave his on. 鈥淐an you suck in your stomach,听Beth?鈥 the photographer would ask. I hated wearing a sports bra without a shirt.
This was the same era when I established , a 5.14c crack at听Yosemite听that would take over a decade to be repeated鈥攂y a man or a woman. It was the hardest trad climb ever established by a woman, and here I was, worried that my stomach was too big.
In my late twenties, after a decade of pushing the limits of climbing, my body started to break down. Tendons, ligaments, bones鈥攖hey all started to collapse after 15 years of deprivation. My climbing cascaded from elite to elementary in a matter of months. Depressed and听harboring听self-harmful thoughts, I gained weight. I鈥檇 overhear people say, 鈥淲hat happened to Beth? She鈥檚 really let herself go.鈥 Unable to perform, my pay was understandably cut. I felt like damaged goods.
In my late twenties, after a decade of pushing the limits of climbing, my body started to break down. Tendons, ligaments, bones鈥攖hey all started to collapse after 15 years of deprivation.
I almost gave up climbing. I completely lost sight of why I鈥檇 started in the first place: because I loved it, and it was fun. Fortunately, with time and a lot of work and understanding about what is truly healthy, I rediscovered that climbing was not and should not be a send-at-all-costs culture. It required changing my inner dialogue and听changing who I interacted with, both in person and online, and learning to walk away from unhealthy conversations. I had to normalize normal. It took years.
Losing weight worked听for my short-term performance gains听but was extremely harmful in the long run. We need to start celebrating a culture that values sustainability, longevity, and health.听It鈥檚 time to let go of听the unrealistic expectations of what our bodies should look like.
That doesn鈥檛 mean we have to lower our听standards of what鈥檚 possible in climbing. Last year I went back to El Poussif, a boulder problem in France鈥檚听Fontainebleau Forest that I hadn鈥檛 tried since 2003. It鈥檚 everything I love about climbing:听technical and subtle and requiring听you to be strong and smart to be successful. When I first听tried it, I naively thought I would do it quickly. But I got shut down,听hard.听When I returned 15 pounds heavier, I assumed I was set up for a similar spectacular听failure.听But I tried to silence those thoughts.听I had been climbing well,听better, in fact, than I had since before having my son, and was starting to realize that maybe weight isn鈥檛 the only path to success. I always thought my previously leaner body would be higher performing, but I had never done a direct comparison. After a few hours, I听stood on top of the climb, elated. El Poussif听showed me that I could climb hard鈥攈arder even than before鈥攚ith a heavier body, a healthier body.
This year听I started climbing in just a sports bra again. It鈥檚 been five years since I had my son, and I was tired of waiting for my prepregnancy body to come back. I am heavier and softer than I鈥檝e ever been, but I no longer feel the need to suck in my stomach for the camera. I know that representation matters, and that a simple act like proudly baring a soft belly in a distorted culture can make a huge difference. I hope that all climbers鈥攎en, women, young and old鈥攃an see examples of all body types being celebrated in climbing. I hope that the climbing community can change.