I grew up skiing on the East Coast. I learned how on a small hill called in Middlefield, Connecticut. College brought me farther north, first to the University of Maine at Farmington for its two-year ski-industry program听and then to the University of Vermont, where I coached the team for a few seasons. The听group of听friends I skied with then听went on to start , an apparel and film company launched in 2005 to show the world that skiing in the East isn鈥檛 just ice鈥攑owder and backcountry options are abundant if you鈥檙e willing to look for them.
While there鈥檚 some good skiing just southeast, at resorts like West Virginia鈥檚 , I rarely felt the need to leave New England.听I fell in love with the woods surrounding Mount Mansfield, at in Vermont, and spent the next decade living in the state and exploring every corner of it. From 2,000 feet of vertical at Mad River Glen听to the local runs at Stowe, here鈥檚 proof that skiing the听鈥渋ce coast鈥 is more than you give it credit for.
Mad River Glen, Vermont
The slow churn of that iconic single chair鈥攐ne of two left in the country鈥攃hugging听uphill to the summit of General Stark Mountain and Mad River Glen听(full-day tickets听from $92), provides solitude in a ski area that鈥檚 stuck in a time capsule. Mad River is the antithesis of modern-day skiing, and therein lies its appeal. Even with the addition of three double chairlifts听over the years, the resort has managed to听preserve听the snow experience on the hill.
I still recall sitting on the lone seater one March morning over a decade ago, snow pelting down on me, when I heard the words 鈥淗oly shit!鈥 from one of my buddies two chairs ahead,听as he came into view of how much听snow had actually come down the previous night. An overnight storm had called for ten inches听but delivered much more, easily two feet of fresh snow.听It was the beginning of a special day. We glided off the chair, sidestepped up to Paradise run and its adjoining glades, and arced through the trees in absurdly deep and light powder.
The winding听trails that contour Mad River and its never-ending tree-skiing terrain are a magical experience. The area has the reputation of needing to bring your A game. The runs听are narrow and steep. Mad River provides as close to a backcountry experience in a ski area as听you鈥檒l ever get.
Need to Know
Timing is your best bet to score at Mad River Glen. Since the area lacks snowmaking, wait until a couple of storms hit and have provided a base. When the midwinter gales听blanket听Vermont, the mountain comes alive.
Don鈥檛 miss the classic gladed run called Paradise off the single chair.听Especially if it鈥檚 a powder day. There are other tree stashes in and around this area; however, be warned that some have sizable cliffs if you venture past the designated runs. Additionally, Fall Line and Chute are legendary runs when the snow is soft. On the other side of the mountain, the double chairs听lead to more manageable glades and trails for less advanced skiers. At the end of the day, a final burner down the twists and turns of Upper and Lower Antelope is a fun tradition. Follow that听with a Vermont microbrew at General Stark鈥檚 Pub, located in the resort鈥檚 base lodge.
Appreciate the history. Mad River Glen was founded听in 1948 by Roland Palmedo, a legend among early ski pioneers. He envisioned听鈥渁 ski area [that鈥檚]听not just a place of business, a mountain amusement park, as it were. Instead, it is a winter community whose members, both skiers and area personnel, are dedicated to the enjoyment of the sport.鈥 That mission still rings true, as the ski industry faces pressures of resort consolidation, with many areas turning into mock Disneylands. Today, Mad River continues to operate as a co-op that was set up in 1995.
Drop your snowboarding friends off at nearby . Mad River Glen doesn鈥檛 allow snowboarding. It has nothing to do with animosity; it鈥檚 a policy based on the mountain鈥檚 terrain.
When to Go
January through March is prime time at Mad River. Sometimes December is snowy, but winter storms can be fickle in Vermont during the early season. Keep your eye on the weather if you鈥檙e flexible, but generally, the midwinter months will provide great conditions. Expect听crowds during holiday breaks.
How to Get There
Fly into Burlington, Vermont. It鈥檚 about an hour drive from there to Mad River. Rent a car that can handle winter conditions.听Or drive up from Boston (a four-hour trip) or New York City (a 5.5-hour trip).
The Intel
Where to Stay
You鈥檒l have your choice of historic Vermont B&Bs and private ski chalets听a short drive from the resort. The eight-room 听(from $149), in the town of Waitsfield, is just 15 minutes away, and a quarter mile north of the resort听is this听听(from $250), perfect for groups or families.
Terrain
If you want to ski New England glades in soft snow, Mad River is your place鈥攖he area has a well-run glading crew in the summer and autumn months. If you鈥檙e looking for backcountry zones, stashes are kept on the hush, so prepare to befriend a local in hopes of them divulging beta.听The mountain has 2,037 feet of vertical, with 45听percent of the area labeled expert terrain, 35 percent intermediate, and 20 percent novice. The resort听grooms some novice and intermediate trails when conditions permit.
Off Hill
Visit . The former head of Mad River Glen鈥檚 naturalist programs brews some of the finest beer in the state听and recently opened a new tap house. Don鈥檛 miss听听in Waitsfield for wood-fired pizzas.
The Bottom Line
Mad River is great for skiers looking to charge hard, but it鈥檚 equally good for families with a variety of ability levels. It鈥檚 not for those who want a ski-resort experience but rather听folks who want to ski without the noise and bustle.
Stowe Mountain Resort, Vermont
Stowe is听considered the ski capital of the East. Even after听Vail purchased 听(day tickets from $78) in 2017, and听it became part of the ,听and swanky hotels opened at the base of the area鈥檚听Spruce Peak, Stowe has remained听an authentic听ski town. The area is a product of legends from the early days of skiing, from the Mount Mansfield Ski Club, established in 1934, to trail crews from the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) that cut Bruce, Nosedive, and other storied runs. Stowe is hallowed ground for New England skiing.
Today听it has been labeled the glitzy alternative to more humble places like Smugglers鈥 Notch (see below)听or Mad River Glen. However, having spent a decade in the area, I know that it鈥檚 also home to one of the best ski-bum scenes in the region. I鈥檓 talking about skiers who work all summer so they can ski all winter, because they know all too well the snow bounty that Mount Mansfield receives and the nooks and crannies in the forest that hide it all.
Need to Know
Park on the Mansfield side. Stowe is divided into two zones: Spruce Peak and Mount Mansfield. The Spruce Peak side is where most of the ski-school and ski-club training happens. It鈥檚 also where the resort village and hotel are located. You鈥檒l find more parking on the Mansfield side. Then simply jump on the Over Easy Gondola to get to the resort base.
Take advantage of the region鈥檚 best lift-served backcountry. The gondola gets you close to the 4,395-foot summit of Mount Mansfield. Once you鈥檝e hiked to the top, there are numerous options to ski down, from long tours to shorter ones. Some runs return to the ski area, and others drop out on the other side of the mountain, into small towns. It鈥檚 easy to get lost if you don鈥檛 know where you鈥檙e going. Be prepared and treat Mansfield听with respect听and you鈥檒l be rewarded with some of the best backcountry skiing east of the Mississippi. Well-known zones such as Angel Food or Hell Brook drop skiers onto Route 108, so expect a mile-and-a-half trek back to the resort if you can鈥檛 thumb a ride.听If you鈥檙e venturing further into the nearby Smugglers鈥櫶齆otch territory, bring avalanche gear, because slides do occur.
Start the day听on the Fourrunner Quad.听The main lift opens at 7:30 A.M. on weekends. If it鈥檚 a powder day, the Starr, Goat, Lookout, Liftline, and National runs are the places to be, but then head into the woods, either off the Quad or the gondola. Finish the day with a mellow schuss down Bruce Trail鈥攁n original CCC听trail cut by Charlie Lord,听the master designer of Stowe鈥檚 ski runs; it starts from the Octagon stop off听the quad听and terminates at the , a popular local watering hole known for apr猫s and live music.
When to Go
Stowe fires up the snow guns at the first sign of continued cold, so go anytime between November and the end of听April. It snows a lot here for the East鈥攍ast year,听Mount Mansfield鈥檚 base reached 120 inches at the height of the snowpack in March. Additionally, February seems to produce the best storms. And the holiday season听is always busy, in addition to most weekends.
How to Get There
Fly into Burlington, and rent a car that can handle winter conditions. The resort is about an hour听from that听airport. Follow Interstate 89 to Exit 10, then take Route 100 into the town of Stowe, followed by a left at the stop sign onto Mountain Road.
The Intel
Where to Stay
There are a variety of slopeside and in-town options that range in price, from听the fancy 300-room Lodge at Spruce Peak (from $204), just steps from the Over Easy Gondola, or the Town and听Country hotel (from $100) in town, which has 43 recently renovated rooms and an in-house pizza joint. Or opt for condos or private homes offered by听听(from $169); many units are within walking distance of听the Toll House Double lift.
Terrain
Stowe鈥檚 terrain is divided into 16 percent beginner, 55 percent intermediate, and 29 percent expert, and it has 2,360 feet of vertical drop. The famous front-four听trails鈥擭ational, Goat, Starr, and Liftline鈥攃ascade down the fall line off the Fourrunner Quad听on听Mount听Mansfield. The alpine chutes听and endless tree skiing off Mansfield鈥檚 summit (some well-known and others hidden) still make听me smile when I think of my time on them. Meanwhile those epic tree-skiing images you see in the media were mostly taken out of bounds. The resort has an open-boundary policy, so be safe and have fun.
Off Hill
Start the day with breakfast at the . It might seem overpriced for some things, but its coffee and breakfast sandwiches are delicious and affordable.听In addition to听, head down to 听for apr猫s and pizza by the slice or pie. If fermented libations are your thing, then be sure to visit 听for an IPA.听听in the town of Stowe is also worth a visit, to learn the history of Vermont skiing and how it has shaped the local community.
The Bottom Line
Stowe is definitely one of my favorite East Coast resorts, and the terrain, snow, and community make this place still feel like a local鈥檚 hill.
Smugglers鈥 Notch Resort, Vermont听
(full-day tickets from $39) is a classic northern Vermont ski area that has managed not to fall into the cookie-cutter resort trap. Locals love it for the excellent terrain听and low-key vibe. It鈥檚 reminiscent of the old Vermonters who have lived in the towns nearby for generations:听sure, the resort could place high-speed quads here, but the skiing quality would go downhill fast.
The ski area has a modest base village听with lodging听and prides itself on its family programs. Drop the kids off for ski school, shred some classic runs, meet up for family听time in the gentler terrain, and you have the makings of solid听day. The area breeds strong skiers, of which I count my wife. When we first met, she told me she鈥檇 grown up skiing Smuggs, and I thought听to myself, OK, this is going to work!
Need to Know
Bundle up for the lift ride. The Madonna I chair is a slow burn to the summit of Madonna Peak, at 3,640 feet. It also faces due north. These are all good things for snow preservation and ski quality, but bring an extra layer for cold days and late afternoons in December and January.
Plan according to skill levels. The area is divided into a lower area, Morse Mountain, and an upper area, consisting of Madonna and Sterling Mountains. Morse is perfect for families and those learning to ski. Sterling听is also great for families who can split up on the downhill and听reconvene听at the chair.
Prepare for tree skiing. It鈥檚 abundant here, both within the ski-area boundary and outside of it. Make sure you鈥檙e prepared and know where you鈥檙e听going if you venture off-piste. Some runs lead to the closed Route 108, from which you鈥檒l need to hike and traverse back to the ski area.
Expect the resort to call it early. Things shut down early at the resort in terms of amenities, but there are plenty of places to grab apr猫s drinks and food as you head closer to the town of听Jeffersonville.
When to Go
December through April typically yields quality skiing. School and holiday breaks get busy with local crowds. Non-holiday-weekend听ski traffic is light, and midweek it鈥檚 a ghost town.
How to Get There
There are several ways to get to Smuggs traveling east from Burlington, all of which average an hour of driving. Route 108, which passes through the Notch from Stowe, is closed during the winter, so don鈥檛 go that way, no matter what Google Maps says.
The Intel
Where to Stay
The resort offers studio to four-bedroom听听(from $90) that are either a short walk or a free shuttle ride into the village.
Terrain
Steep bumps with natural features on Freefall, Liftline, and Robin鈥檚 Run will keep intermediate and advanced skiers entertained, in addition to excellent tree skiing, in-bounds and out. Last year听Smuggs recorded 329听inches of snow. In-bound glades, such as Doc Dempsey鈥檚, are classic Smuggs terrain, but backcountry stashes are abundant as well. Be prepared with your gear, partner, and navigation to get you to and from the ski area.
Off Hill
The Ben and Jerry鈥檚 scoop shop and Black Bear Tavern are a hit with families for apr猫s. There are also loads of kids鈥 activities in the , a 26,000-square-foot indoor playground at the resort. Off the hill, head down the road to . In Jeffersonville,听听is a delicious spot for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. If you鈥檙e looking to nab tasty baked goods on the go, hit up the听 for locally made goodies. It鈥檚 in a former gas station, so you may be tempted to judge, but its cookies and famous bear claw听are worthy.
The Bottom Line
This is a local鈥檚 mountain, with a casual, throwback feel. While there are plenty of tough backcountry runs, Smuggs is also popular with beginners and families, thanks to gentler terrain options, like Sir Henry鈥檚 Learning and Fun Park听and the Magic Carpet.
Sugarloaf Mountain, Maine
Rising out of the Carrabassett Valley in northern Maine, 听Mountain (part of the ; full-day tickets from $109)听appears akin to a volcano in the Pacific Northwest. The resort听boasts one of largest continuous verticals in the east鈥2,820 feet鈥攁nd its location well north of Portland, Maine, means fewer听crowds than many of the more southern New England ski areas.
Other than Stowe, Sugarloaf is the only ski area in the East to offer alpine terrain. At 4,237 feet, Sugarloaf is the second-tallest mountain in the state, and long, sustained fall-line trails tumble downslope from the summit into steep bump runs or open fields of corduroy, begging you to let your skis run. The Loaf (as locals call it) also has some of the best trails for arcing fast groomers. And while this East Coast resort doesn鈥檛 have traditional tight New England trails contouring the mountain, it makes up for it with a plethora of newly opened gladed terrain. If you can stomach the听heartier cold spells, there鈥檚 no听better place to ski in Maine. The mountain has a vibrant, local vibe and is family friendly.
Need to Know
Look out for new 听runs. Prior to opening up maintained backcountry runs like Brackett Basin, Sugarloaf was known for its snowfields and terrain park. There鈥檚 plenty of covert tree skiing still available off the Spillway chair: slide out of bounds, down the shoulder and back side of the snowfields, to a zone of trees that opens up with a couple lanes that stop听at a small cabin called the听Salsa Shack. Then continue听down to听a traverse and back to the King Pine chair, where some of the best natural snow skiing is.听More recently, the Loaf boosted its skiable acres through glades听and just added a new area off Burnt Mountain. Burnt was previously only accessed by hiking but can now be reached via a snowcat with the purchase of an access ticket (from $45).
Bring that extra layer.听Cold temperatures听preserve the mountain from the proverbial January thaws that can wreak havoc on other East Coast ski resorts. Having spent two years in this area, I鈥檝e experienced overhead powder days and bone-rattling cold groomer runs with howling winds. Be prepared for New England weather that can change at any moment.
Mark your calendar. 听is the biggest ski-area spring party I鈥檝e ever seen. It happens every April at Sugarloaf and is full of good times.
When to Go
The Loaf can have reliable coverage from snowmaking in November. Once winter kicks in, the snow is usually good through April. Late winter and early spring are typically the best times to go, and the Loaf averages 200 inches of snow per year. Keep tabs on nor鈥檈asters, when storms unload on the resort听as they travel up and stall within the Gulf of Maine.
Getting There
While 鈥測ou can鈥檛 get there from here鈥澨齣s a classic Mainer response when you ask for complicated directions, luckily for skiers, Sugarloaf is easy to get to if you don鈥檛 mind a little driving. The closest large airport is either in Portland, Maine, or Boston, a 2.5- and four-hour drive, respectively. From Boston, take I-95/Maine Turnpike to Auburn, Maine, then Route 4 to Farmington, and then Route 27 north to Carrabassett Valley and the resort. If you鈥檙e traveling during听the day, you鈥檒l know you鈥檙e close when you hit Oh My Gosh Corner鈥攚hen Sugarloaf鈥檚 broad face comes into view. The best part about Sugarloaf is its remoteness, and you鈥檒l be glad you made the trek, given the diminished crowds.
The Intel
Where to Stay
(from $99), just 100 yards from the SuperQuad lift, has an outdoor hot tub and an on-site restaurant called 45 North. There are also condos and vacation rentals that vary in price.
Terrain
For a ski area this big, it still feels manageable, given the simple base area. The breakdown of trails is 23 percent beginner, 34 percent intermediate, 27 percent advanced, and 18 percent expert. Additionally, the resort鈥檚 Brackett Basin and Burnt Mountain provide over 650 acres of backcountry-style glades.听The snowfields atop Sugarloaf鈥檚 summit offer the only above-treeline, lift-accessed terrain in the Northeast.
Off Hill
Aside from the on-mountain restaurant听, all the other restaurants and bars are located at听the main base area. Check out 听for lunch and the听听and the听 for apr猫s brews. 听provides a finer farm-to-table dining experience.
The Bottom Line
Sugarloaf is great for families as well as skiers looking to get into the woods and newly opened terrain. It鈥檚 also the training grounds for the , a well-known ski school with racing and freeride programs.
The Backcountry at Mount Washington, New Hampshire
Mount Washington lies within the Presidential Range, located in in northern New Hampshire. At 6,288 feet, it dwarfs the neighboring Green Mountains of Vermont. Its extreme weather has been documented from summit observatories for years, recording a long-standing record of the highest wind speed on land鈥231 miles per hour in April听1934. The mountain features听2,000 feet of terrain above tree line听and 13 glacial cirques (bowls听loaded with snow that span the ridgelines)听and lies within the convergence of three separate storm tracks. It鈥檚 infamously known as home to the worst weather in the world.听The terrain is also avalanche prone.
But when the weather is calm听and the howling winds transition to nothing more than a breath, the steep chutes and bowls become a proving ground for backcountry skiers in New England听and lure westerners, drawn to听the region鈥檚 prominence in the history of North American skiing. That鈥檚 because the mountain is听home to a听famed cirque called Tuckerman听Ravine,听a rite of passage for many East Coast skiers. Located on the southeast face of Mount Washington, the ravine requires boot-packing up a 50-degree pitch before thundering down a chute that鈥檚 close to vertical.
Need to Know
Get the gear and the training. Bring avalanche gear, and know how to use it.听There are several outfits within Vermont and New Hampshire that offer Level 1 Avalanche classes. In addition to taking the class, practice using your gear鈥攅specially when you鈥檙e tired and cold, because that鈥檚 typically when accidents happen. In addition to a beacon, shovel, and probe, Mount Washington skiers should be comfortable using crampons and ice axes. Before you go, check the听, which provides forecasts听along with weather and photo updates.
Familiarize yourself with safe听zones. The lower parts of the Sherburne Ski Trail and Gulf of Slides Ski Trail, which start off Pinkham Notch, bob and weave down the mountain. They function听as a safe space for听touring if the avalanche hazard is high, because听the trails听are sheltered by heavy tree coverage.听Be savvy and don鈥檛 push it when conditions are sketchy, as slides听historically have sent timber flying onto these trails.
Make sure to have a map and听compass, or use Gaia GPS. On the west side of Mount Washington, there are alpine cirques similar to Tuckerman Ravine, such as Ammonoosuc Ravine and听Monroe Brook. Make sure to have navigational tools handy in case you lose your way in these high mountains.
When to Go
Luckily, those howling winds on Mount Washington deposit loads of snow during storms. Weather and snow conditions vary greatly day to day. Typically January or February through May is a safe bet for good snowpack.
Getting There
Pinkham Notch is the most popular trailhead start location. It鈥檚 on Route 16 in northern New Hampshire听and is a mile south on White Mountain Road from听, another well-known destination听known for its variety of terrain. Pinkham Notch is a three-hour drive from Boston and a two-hour drive from Portland, Maine.听From the Notch, you can access the Sherburne Ski Trail, Tuckerman Ravine, Huntington Ravine Trail, and Hillman Highway鈥檚 Ascent. Additionally, the Gulf of Slides Ski Trail begins here and leads to the Gulf of Slides and Oakes Gulf ravines.
The Intel
Where to Stay
听(from $70), located at Pinkham听Notch, has private rooms and bunk rooms with shared baths, plus a breakfast buffet. If the weather allows,听听(from $15), located 2.4 miles up Tuckerman Ravine Trail, is the only area permitted for camping on the east side of Mount Washington. The lean-tos and tent platforms are available on a first-come, first-served basis, and a permit can be obtained at Pinkham Notch.
Terrain
The most popular area on Mount Washington is Tuckerman Ravine. Since the early days of the听,听when shredders听barreled down the Lip and Sherburne Ski Trail听during the 1930s, Tuckerman Ravine has been a test for skiers. I distinctly remember skiing over its Center Headwall for the first time: the slope peeled away with each turn, creating an exhilarating drive to see more of it. The first time I scored one of its听chutes in the early spring, a long, white canvas in front of me, it was even more special.
Off Hill
Don鈥檛 miss apr猫s beers and BBQ at 听and the , especially after a day of backcountry touring.
The Bottom Line
Skiing on 鈥渢he Big Rock,鈥澨齛s locals call the mountain,听shouldn鈥檛 be taken lightly. From 50-degree steeps, ice-bulge cliffs bisecting chutes, avalanche danger, and late-season crevasses, it鈥檚 as real as it gets on the East Coast and a skiing mecca for those with the skills听to experience classic backcountry terrain.