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Beware the trap that is Morgan鈥檚 Diner. Its founders give you food, you give them miles.
Beware the trap that is Morgan鈥檚 Diner. Its founders give you food, you give them miles. (Photo: Morgan Goodwin)

The Restaurant Stealing Miles from PCT Thru-Hikers

Morgan's Diner doesn't charge a dime for a gourmet meal, but it'll still cost you

Published: 
Beware the trap that is Morgan鈥檚 Diner. Its founders give you food, you give them miles.
(Photo: Morgan Goodwin)

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Morgan鈥檚 Diner might be the only eating establishment in the world that offers three meals a day, full-body massages, postal services, yard games, and a DJ鈥攁nd doesn鈥檛 charge its customers a dollar. It only happens one weekend each summer听in the middle of the woods somewhere along the Pacific Crest Trail.听

There is a catch. PCT hikers walking through in Northern California this year on听the second weekend in August, not far from the trail鈥檚 halfway point,听enjoyed those gourmet meals and free beer at the trailside pop-up diner in exchange for their miles.听

鈥淢organ鈥檚 Diner is a very expensive diner,鈥 explains Morgan Goodwin, the diner鈥檚 namesake. 鈥淎s soon as you arrive, your bill starts. And as you leave, you have to log in to the guest book how many miles we鈥檝e stolen鈥攐r in other words, how many miles you would have hiked if you didn鈥檛 run into us.鈥

The听goal of its founders?听鈥淪teal鈥 enough miles from thru-hikers to have completed听the 2,652-mile Pacific Crest Trail themselves.

(Morgan Goodwin)

This conceit鈥攔estaurant-quality food for miles鈥攊s as simple as it is听devious. The longer a thru-hiker stays at Morgan鈥檚 Diner, the less hiking they鈥檒l do that day.听Given that most thru-hikers听need every moment听of sunlight to hike 20 to 25 miles daily, a couple of meals at the diner can throw off a strict schedule.听

But inevitably, many hikers stick around for one, two, or even three meals. Many stay overnight for breakfast in the morning. After all, the meals鈥擝aja-style fish and shrimp tacos, caprese sandwiches, egg-and-chorizo burritos were served this summer鈥攁re difficult to resist after months of instant ramen and dehydrated听mashed potatoes, the standard thru-hiker diet.听

Following the pop-up diner鈥檚 appearance this August, the eight friends masterminding the operation have successfully stolen 1,265 miles from more than a hundred PCT hikers over six years.听

It all started in 2014, when the diner鈥檚 head chef, Nick Lee, noticed听that a friend of his was thru-hiking the PCT. That friend, Gabe Lewis, was using a SPOT satellite messenger to sporadically post his GPS position on his blog.

鈥淚 saw that he was near Truckee, [California,] so I threw some sandwiches and drinks in my pack and started hiking where he was, knowing I鈥檇 run into him eventually,鈥 says Lee. At the time, Lee hadn鈥檛 seen his friend in years. Lewis could scarcely believe the surprise, and Lee had enough food to feed not just his friend, but Lewis鈥檚 trail buddies who were hiking with him.

鈥淭hey were so shocked by that kind of random act of kindness,鈥 says Lee.

The next weekend, Lee, Goodwin, and Megan Holmes鈥攖hree friends who attended Williams College together听in 2008鈥攚ere debating what to do during the upcoming Fourth of July. That鈥檚 when they decided:听Why not go out and feed more thru-hikers, only this time do it bigger听and better?

As it happened, Lee had some experience with cooking. He teaches at , a program founded by Alice Waters that introduces school kids around the world to the importance of natural and sustainable food systems. 鈥淲anting to share fresh, beautiful food, a lot of that inspiration comes from my work at the middle school,鈥 says Lee.

So, on that holiday听weekend, the friends drove up in Morgan鈥檚 RV鈥攖he inspiration for the pop-up's name鈥攖o , where the Pacific Crest Trail passes along the western shore of Lake Tahoe. There, Morgan鈥檚 Diner was born.

鈥淲e didn鈥檛 know if anybody was going to come through,鈥 says Holmes. But soon enough, hikers started arriving.

鈥淩ight away, after the first burger we served, we knew this was something worth doing again,鈥 says Lee. 鈥淭hru-hikers are the perfect people to cook for, because they鈥檙e so thrilled to be having a good meal. They always want seconds or thirds.鈥

But the team was not content with just serving burgers. In the following years, at various locations along the PCT in Northern California, it听developed more elaborate menus, brainstormed new luxuries it听could offer customers, and invited more friends to come along, until the founders听had a crew of eight听to ten听people. In 2015, Rachel Fryke joined the operation, offering spa treatments, such as听full-body massages and aromatherapy. The first year, she even offered free haircuts.

鈥淥nly one person took me up on the haircuts,鈥 says Fryke. 鈥淗e was the dean of the medical school at Johns听Hopkins.鈥

Other amenities have include听free postcards, which they听will mail for you, a variety of yard and card games to entertain hikers in between meals, and henna tattoos.In addition to the cooking听station, there鈥檚 a variety of camp chairs, snack-laden tables, and canopies to keep hikers comfortable.听Plus, plenty of beer, always. It鈥檚 all a part of the plan to get hikers to stay longer and steal more miles.听

鈥淲hen somebody is thinking about getting back on trail,鈥 says Goodwin, 鈥渨e鈥檒l tell them what we鈥檙e having for dinner, let them know what they鈥檙e walking away from.鈥

The organizers openly admit how devilishly fun it is to force hikers to choose between hiking more miles and fish tacos. But stealing miles isn鈥檛 just mischievous, they explain;听it also challenges them to offer even better trail magic year after year.

鈥淚t incentivizes us to do the best we can, because if we can get a hiker to stay another hour for a massage, then we can steal more miles,鈥 says Lee. It鈥檚 also a great excuse to reunite with old friends. 鈥淭he eight or ten people who show up year after year who love this, it gives us a shared mission.鈥

Although Morgan鈥檚 Diner is fun and games on the surface, the organizers take what they do seriously. This year, they spent about a thousand dollars on food and drink to feed thru-hikers, plus weeks of planning that go into developing meals. Lee even teased the possibility of a future, experimental Morgan鈥檚 Diner that would include white tablecloths, place settings, and a printed menu.听

The group of friends like to think of their pop-up diner as a kind of performance art. And they want people to know that there鈥檚 no monopoly on spontaneous, over-the-top kindness. 鈥淚 would love to see copycats,鈥 says Lee. 鈥淛ust go out and do magic!鈥

And what will happen when Morgan鈥檚 Diner has finally stolen 2,652 miles, the equivalent of one thru-hike?

鈥淲ell, technically, that鈥檚 only one thru-hike,鈥 says Lee. 鈥淎nd there are eight of us.鈥

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