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Denali’s Raven

Third-generation pilot Leighan Falley on the importance of tundra tires, the devastating effects of the "white wind," and the sublime beauty of the Alaska Range

Like a lot of people who grew up in Alaska, Leighan Falley couldn鈥檛 wait to escape the state. After high school, the 36-year-old tried out Utah, Colorado, and Montana, among other states, but she always found herself missing home. She was especially drawn back to the Alaska Range and its crown jewel, Denali, which she had wanted to climb ever since she was a young girl and where she had a harrowing experience as a young woman.

Eventually, she figured out how to make a living in the mountains鈥攁s a heli ski guide in the winter and climbing guide in Denali in the summer. Then marriage and a daughter, Skye, came along. Following in her family鈥檚 footsteps, Falley now makes her living as bush pilot, soaring around the massive peaks that have always defined her.聽


I grew up in Fairbanks in a family of pilots. My dad flew, my grandmother flew, and my aunt flew.

I got my license from a flight school in Talkeetna. I was the first student. It wasn鈥檛 all that hard learning to fly there because I鈥檇 already spent time climbing in the Alaska Range. For me, it felt like a nice comfy place. But I don鈥檛 think it鈥檚 feels that way to someone fresh out of Florida.

It鈥檚 not hard being a female pilot in Alaska, but that鈥檚 also the wonderful thing about aviation. The airplane, the mountains, and the weather鈥攖hey don鈥檛 know you鈥檙e a woman. And when passengers are nervous, it鈥檚 more about youth than gender. They expect to see the classic older white gentleman with white hair at the temples, while we have young pilots, and female pilots, and pilots of different races and ethnicities.

I had one close call while flying鈥攅ngine failure caused by ice. I had to land on a riverbar with no engine. I was by myself, but I got lucky. I stuffed my jacket in the aircraft鈥檚 cowling and waited until the ice melted. I sat there collecting myself, and then took off.

I was lucky to have tundra tires on my plane. If not, I would have flipped.

I鈥檝e wanted to be a climber since my mom started reading me climbing tragedy stories鈥攍ike Art Davidson鈥檚 Minus 148鈥攚hen I was 10.

That鈥檚 how old I was鈥擨 remember it distinctly鈥攚hen I told her I wanted to climb mountains. It was summer solstice, and you could see the Alaska Range shimmering on the horizon. I pointed to Denali and said, 鈥淚 want to climb that one.鈥 She looked at me and said, 鈥淭hat鈥檚 the biggest.鈥

I didn鈥檛 attempt to climb Denali until I was 20, on a NOLS course. We got caught at 18,000 feet in what鈥檚 called a 鈥渨hite wind.鈥 A microblast lifted two of our four tents into the air and threw them down the glacier. I was in one, and our tent caught on fire because we were cooking. I remember when it landed and rolled down the glacier鈥攁 tumble of legs and gear. I could smell burning. I thought This is so bad鈥攖o be hit by an avalanche while the tent鈥檚 on fire. We spent the next several days fighting for our lives, but a Lama helicopter eventually came and we hiked out on our own power.

Three years later, I got a job guiding Denali. I thought it was a lot of hard work. I don鈥檛 know if I ever truly enjoyed it.

My favorite thing about flying is that you can do things like go camping in really remote spots, with all of your flying friends and kids, and you get to see things no one else sees, like the most outrageous Northern Lights.

My daughter鈥檚 first word wasn鈥檛 airplane, it was 鈥淣o.鈥

I hope selfishly when she grows up, she stays in Alaska, but just hope she pushes herself in whatever she wants and is happy.

Every time we go to the airport, she asks where we鈥檙e going camping.

We fly all the time. I flew with her yesterday. We went all the way down to Mount Redoubt, landed on the beach, collected seashells and harvested clams, which she cleaned back at home with her dad.

If you come all the way to Alaska, the one thing you definitely have to do is fly the Alaska Range. In springtime, before the tourist season, we get a lot of lifelong Alaskans who have never done it. They say it's the most beautiful thing they've ever seen. 聽


Built for close calls in far-flung places. Built for tall tales and epic adventures. Built for finding comfort well outside comfort zones. Built for the wild.

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