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Pro tip: Roll whole roasted crickets between your palms to get rid of some stray antennae and legs that could cause... textural problems.
Pro tip: Roll whole roasted crickets between your palms to get rid of some stray antennae and legs that could cause... textural problems. (Photo: Giada Canu)

We Made Our Writer Eat Bugs for a Week (to Save the World)

Our writer replaced all her protein with insects for a week to see how difficult, expensive, and tasty it can be. The result: a guide to the real-life, (mostly) non-gross-out logistics of being an insectivore.

Published: 
Pro tip: Roll whole roasted crickets between your palms to get rid of some stray antennae and legs that could cause... textural problems.
(Photo: Giada Canu)

New perk: Easily find new routes and hidden gems, upcoming running events, and more near you. Your weekly Local Running Newsletter has everything you need to lace up! .

I promised myself this piece would be different from the canon of shock聽insect food writing that has been done ad (literal) nauseam. It would be well聽reported and聽thorough, and I would not get grossed out. And then I got a cricket leg stuck in my throat. On day one, meal two, I was trying鈥攁nd failing鈥攏ot to dry heave.听So I couldn鈥檛 completely avoid the yuck聽factor. But it wasn鈥檛 all bad.

As you鈥檝e probably heard, bugs are the new superfood. In 2013, the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations to look seriously at insects as a sustainable protein source. They require very little food and water input: while beef takes about 22 pounds of feed to produce about two pounds of meat, the same amount of crickets requires聽just four pounds of grain. Also, insects can be raised just about anywhere. There鈥檚 no need to destroy vast swaths of rainforest to develop pastures for bugs like we currently do for cattle. And bugs don鈥檛 fart methane. For every two pounds of beef raised, six grams of greenhouse gasses are emitted. The same amount of crickets produces only a fraction of an ounce.

Crickets, mealworms, wax worms, and grasshoppers are also incredibly healthy. Species vary, of course, but most are high in B聽vitamins, protein, and certain amino acids,聽and most are relatively low in fat. If you were skimming the nutrition label on an otherwise unmarked package, you鈥檇 think, Hey, I should probably be eating more of whatever this is.

So it鈥檚 not that surprising the editors at 国产吃瓜黑料 wanted to know how realistic it is to fuel a week of training with bugs. Here鈥檚 what we found.

Monday: Experiencing the Full Spectrum of Insectivore Emotions

I log long runs on Sunday nights, so I wake up ravenous on Mondays. My normal routine is to gobble a bowl of whole-milk yogurt with nuts and chia seeds, plus coffee. Then I head to the barn for an hour of mucking out stalls and moving hay bales. (I call it CrossFit for the rural girl鈥攜ou spend a small fortune for the privilege of doing hard physical labor.)

On this Monday, however, I grabbed an and coffee as I hopped into my car. Interestingly, the bar has a pretty similar macronutrient breakdown to my normal breakfast: 300 calories, 10聽grams of protein, 20 grams of fat, and 23 grams of carbs, plus about 13 grams of sugar. In technical food-writing terms, I鈥檇 describe the Cocoa Nut-flavored bar as a 鈥渕eh.鈥 It certainly wasn鈥檛 bad, but I鈥檇 never wake up and crave it. It was nutrition for nutrition鈥檚 sake.听

By 10 a.m., I was hungry again. (This is my norm, so I can鈥檛 blame it on the bar.) On a typical day, I鈥檇 grab a handful of pistachios and a second cup of coffee. Instead, I grabbed a bag of , a cricket flour鈥揵ased tortilla chip with five聽grams of protein. Now, I don鈥檛 actually eat chips very often (don鈥檛 worry, I have plenty of other vices), so maybe my frame of reference is off. But these rocked: super crispy, with an aggressive salt level and just a hint of heat. I had to move them away from my desk to keep myself from devouring the entire聽six-ounce bag.听

I eat basically the same thing for lunch every day: a kale-based salad topped with some sort of lean protein and an olive oil鈥揵ased dressing. (Please note: I do not eat kale out of some sense of holier-than-thou nutritional piety. I eat it because I planted too many kale plants this year聽and have been overrun by the stuff. I am, in fact, really sick of kale.)

I built my salad with all the regular ingredients: diced carrots and red onion, roasted beets, a few slices of avocado, some fresh tomato, and a dab of goat cheese. But instead of chopping up cooked chicken breast or opening a can of chickpeas for protein, I reached for a bag of .听

One-third of a cup of these crickets has ten聽grams of protein, two grams of fat, and only one gram of carbs, so it was nutritionally similar to what I would have been getting had I opted for part of a chicken breast. But here鈥檚 the thing: a third of a cup of crickets is actually kind of a lot. Especially when you鈥檝e just gotten a leg stuck in your throat and another two聽dozen carcasses are staring up from the bottom of your salad bowl. They taste fine鈥攇ood, even. They鈥檙e a bit like roasted pumpkin seeds:聽nutty and toasty. But it鈥檚 harder to love the legs, antennae, and eyes that seemingly watch you as you eat (crickets are the Mona Lisa of proteins).听

By dinnertime, I was grouchy. Not because I was hungry,聽but because I was really dreading eating 鈥渕ealworm bolognese.鈥 I put a pot of water on to boil my cricket-flour pasta. I looked at the literal can of worms I was about to open and briefly thought, You know, no one would know if I never actually ate this. The water boiled, the timer ticked down. My journalist guilt kicked in,聽and I knew I had to do the right thing.听

Now, hear me out: I鈥檓 glad I opted to dig in, because聽 is delicious. The company uses a proprietary process that results in a meaty final product. 鈥淭he process is kind of like making cheese鈥攜ou have to find a way to get the proteins to knit together and form textures,鈥 says co-founder Lee Cadesky. The sauce could easily pass for beef. The cricket-flour pasta was good, too鈥攕imilar in texture to whole-wheat pasta,聽with just a few more earthy notes. Best of all, the meal had considerably more protein and way less fat than what you鈥檇 get from a bowl of traditional spaghetti with bolognese.听

Crickets are the Mona Lisa of proteins.

Tuesday: Highs, Lows, and Pro Tips

After Monday鈥檚 dinner, I began the day feeling hopeful. I ate another Exo bar for breakfast and kale salad for lunch. (This story made me realize that my breakfast and lunch situation seriously lacks variety. C鈥檈st la vie.) I grabbed a graham cracker, smeared on peanut butter, and topped it with dry-roasted crickets for a pre-run snack. As I was arranging the crickets for a photo, I learned a valuable lesson: the more you handle them, the more their legs and antennae fall off and the easier they are to eat. From here on out, I rubbed a handful of the critters around in my hands before adding them to anything, discarding whatever appendages fell off in the process.听

I ran surprisingly well on Tuesday night. I鈥檇 planned on six miles with a three-mile聽tempo session, and while it wasn鈥檛 easy, I was able to stay on pace without too much agony. I may have just been enjoying the less-oppressive temps of some unusual late-August weather. But was it the crickets, too?

My normal after-workout routine is to slam a mix of whey protein and whole milk before showering. I鈥檇 been sent a package of , so I subbed that in with my milk, shook vigorously, and took a huge swig. Of everything I ate during the week, this was, by far, the worst. I did a literal spit-take after feeling the grit of ground up antenna floating between my molars. Even worse, it tasted overwhelmingly of earth鈥攁nd not the innocuous clay you find here in Tennessee. It was like licking the business end of someone鈥檚 compost pile. For the rest of the week, I went without post-workout protein.听

Luckily, I had mealworm pasta leftovers hanging out in my fridge. It was just as good on night two. I wondered if I could eat this for every meal the rest of the week.听

Wednesday: Getting Creative!

It was much harder than usual to get up when my alarm chirped (just as my breakfast bar once had) at 5 a.m. Maybe it was because I hadn鈥檛 adequately refueled after last night鈥檚 workout. Or maybe I was tired of the experiment and really missed eating yogurt for breakfast. I grumbled my way into my barn clothes, grabbed a protein bar, and tried not to think about the yogurt I was missing.听

For lunch, I switched out my kale salad for Austin-based 鈥檚 Tomato and Avocado Salad with Crickets and Machacado. Recipes like this are bugs at their best. See, crickets and grasshoppers are mostly exoskeleton, which makes them extraordinarily crunchy. You really need other textures to offset the pure crackle factor. Avocado, cheese, and punchy tomatoes do that perfectly. Now that I knew the trick for de-legging the beasts, I had no trouble making it to the bottom of my salad bowl.听

I totally flaked on Wednesday鈥檚 workout. The weather聽was storming, so I moved my bike to the trainer. I鈥檇 planned for a few sets of subthreshold intervals. Halfway through the first eight-minute effort, I was checked out. I certainly can鈥檛 blame the bugs. Hell, I have bad days even when my nutrition is completely dialed. However, I鈥檝e written extensively about , and I firmly believe that humans have limited mental resolve. I felt like I鈥檇 used mine up trying to stay true to the bug diet. I rode for 30 minutes, realized I was quite literally spinning my wheels, and called it a day.听

For dinner, I decided to try using a pressure cooker to soften up those hard bodies. I threw dried black beans, cubed yams, and a couple handfuls of roasted crickets into the pot, then set the pressure to blast聽and came back an hour later. Believe it or not, it worked. I鈥檇 created a black bean chili with remnants of crickets so blown to bits that they were hardly noticeable.听

Thursday: Hitting the Bug Wall (and Overcoming It with Tacos)

If this week were a marathon, Thursday was聽when I hit the point where you think, I鈥檓 never signing up for this sh*t again. The end was near聽but still too far away to feel particularly gleeful about it. Another morning, another protein bar, another fantasy about yogurt, another round of heavy lifting at the barn.听

Lunch was leftovers. I was running out of meal ideas. Seeing that Tupperware of last night鈥檚 beans was comforting.听

Two hours before heading out the door for a run, I had another round of graham crackers topped with peanut butter and roasted crickets. I did two HIIT sets and surprised myself by hitting really solid times. Who knows, maybe bug protein was聽what I needed to hit a new PR.听

I ended the day with grasshopper tacos, something you can find almost anywhere in Mexico. I鈥檇 ordered some chipotle-flavored grasshoppers (yup, that鈥檚 a thing) from Amazon, and as I opened the jar, I thought, Oh wow, they have their wings and legs removed.听That鈥檚 awesome! My next thought? I need a new job.

I was working off a recipe from , a restaurant in Austin. The instructions called for saut茅ing the critters with garlic, then tossing them into a tortilla with a squeeze of lime and a few epazote leaves, an herb that鈥檚 sort of in the vein of oregano聽but much stronger. It might have been an authentic take on chapulines tacos, but to me it was a disaster. Grasshoppers, like crickets, are mainly exoskeleton, and the exoskeleton-to-other-stuff ratio was way, way off. Every bite was like chomping on a taco full of peanut shells.

The good news is that tacos are easy to fix. I added some refried beans, several slices of avocado, some saut茅ed onions, and fresh salsa鈥攁nd the whole thing changed. The taco wasn鈥檛 just聽edible, it was also really good. I went to bed feeling proud and full.听

Crickets and grasshoppers are mostly exoskeleton, which makes them extraordinarily crunchy. You really need other textures to offset the pure crackle factor. Avocado, cheese, and punchy tomatoes do that perfectly.

Friday: The Insectivore鈥檚 Dilemma

Honestly, I鈥檇 been waiting for this day all week. But it wasn鈥檛 because eating bugs was grossing me out. Eating bugs isn鈥檛 gross. The longer the week went on, the easier it was to not think twice as a popped a cricket into my mouth.听

However, it was limiting. My biggest takeaway from the week was that we don鈥檛 yet have the diversity of bug products necessary to make eating them easy. The pasta and pasta sauce were both fantastic products, but getting my hands on them was difficult. So was getting the chips and protein bars. And nobody聽can subsist on pasta and protein bars alone.

To make entomophagy happen, we鈥檙e going to need more options聽like the pasta and bolognese. These products are a perfect entry point: no eyeballs are聽staring up at you, but they are real, nutritious food, not something you buy as a gag gift. Bugs can and should be considered real food, but until Americans can wrap their brains around eating them, we鈥檙e going to need 鈥済ateway鈥 foods.

But back to Friday. For breakfast, I had yet another bar. For lunch, I had another taco, but my grand plans were for my last supper: cricket pizza.听

Honestly, I should have been worried when I saw the words 鈥済luten free鈥 on the . Determined to make this work, I measured out the flour, yeast, and salt before mixing the dough with warm water. My optimism faded as I tried to knead the slimy ball. It was completely lacking in elasticity. It was like trying to knead Play-Doh鈥攜ou could push it down onto the board, but it wouldn鈥檛 spring back up unless you pried it with your fingernails. I persevered鈥攌neading, smashing, and yanking for a full five minutes before leaving the dough to rise.

An hour later, it was the same-size聽booger of sadness I鈥檇 left sitting in the bowl. My dinner plans were looking bleaker by the second. Maybe it will turn out okay, I thought as I fished around for my pizza pan. I wanted this story to have a happy ending.听

It didn鈥檛 turn out okay. It was like eating mozzarella and tomato sauce off a soggy cardboard cracker. But the problem wasn鈥檛 the crickets: the flour was a mix of ground crickets with cassava. Had it been ground crickets and wheat, the result probably would have worked, since the lack of gluten (plus a chef not wise in gluten-free hacks) was聽really bumming my crust out.

I ate exactly .07 percent of the pizza, sliding the rest into the trash with a loud 鈥渢hwap.鈥 It was the end of my five days. Surely I could eat a frozen burrito and no one would hold it against me? Oh, but I鈥檇 come so far. Giving up now seemed weak. So I did the only logical thing: I gorged myself on the remaining Chiridos chips, drank a bunch of beer, and fell asleep on the sofa, dreaming of yogurt for breakfast.

Lead Photo: Giada Canu

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