I can鈥檛 think of a better alpinist to answer this question than 鈥攇耻颈诲别, , Patagonia ambassador, and founder of the Alpine Mentors Program.
House has climbed some of the highest peaks in the world with his remarkably clean, fast, and light style. The Oregon native and his climbing partner, Vince Anderson, were the first 鈥攖he Piolet d’Or鈥攆or their 2005 ascent of the Central Pillar of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat.聽
And he鈥檚 all about sharing his knowledge.聽鈥攁n intensive nonprofit training program for young alpinists鈥攚ill finish its first class in October. House and Anderson also offer a winter climbing class, a large section of which is devoted to covering proper clothing and equipment. 聽
I spoke with House in Chamonix, France to get his gear tips for traveling fast and light in an alpine environment. You don鈥檛 have to be a wannabe alpinist to benefit from his teachings鈥攈is advice will help you move fast and light in almost any outdoor setting.
Be Fit and Efficient
Before recommending any gear, House defined fitness and efficiency as two distinct categories. “People put a lot of importance on gear, but I think the most important thing in climbing [is to be] fast and light yourself,” says House. “A really skilled, fit climber can basically use any gear he wants and probably be faster than anybody.”
Anyone can work on staying fit in the gym, but efficiency is another matter. House will challenge clients to climb a 30-foot section of ice in as few moves as possible. “If you鈥檙e the guy who spends a tiny amount of energy to send those 30 feet, then you鈥檙e not going to be tired. It doesn’t matter if your pack is light or heavy at that point,” House says.
Think Multi-Use
Don鈥檛 carry any gear that can鈥檛 be used in multiple ways. House thinks about versatility even when packing his first-aid kit. Because tape serves many purposes, it has a permanent home in House鈥檚 kit. Look at gear that鈥檚 absolutely essential to your activity from a multi-use perspective, too. Rope is the perfect example, says House. There are thousands of ways to use it, and it鈥檚 both a critical and versatile piece of equipment.
Be Smart About Calories
What you eat depends on how much you鈥檒l be exerting yourself and that depends on how fit you are. “If you鈥檙e redlining all day, all you can deal with is carbohydrates,鈥 says House. In these instances, he chooses food he can digest quickly like gels. A good rule of thumb is to consume about 100 calories (or one gel) every hour. 聽聽
If You Plan to Sweat, Go Synthetic
House almost always uses synthetic insulation. 鈥淲hen you鈥檙e working hard enough that you鈥檙e sweating and you put on a down jacket, that sweat goes into the down. And unless it’s Encapsil [hydrophobic] down, that down is going to get wet and not insulate anymore,” House says.
A wet jacket can put you in serious danger when you鈥檙e hiking in the winter. That鈥檚 where synthetic insulation’s fast dry time comes in handy.
Three Strikes, It’s Out
If you take an item on a climb and don鈥檛 use it once, it gets red flagged. If you go on three trips without using the product, remove it from your pack. The only exception? A first-aid kit. “That鈥檚 something that you hope you never have to use, but probably will always carry,” House says. “But if there are things I don’t use, I get rid of them.”
Keep it Simple
“It’s the old KISS principle, right? Everything complicated is heavy,” House explained. You can even apply this principal to buying a backpack. If you find a pack loaded with extra features, think about how those bells and whistles will slow you down on the trail. That wasted energy can mean more than just some huffing and puffing. “I want to have that energy available for climbing the mountain and getting down safely.” House says.